* Location: 21 The Market Building, Covent Garden Piazza, London WC2E 8RD
* Website: Visit Website
* Price: £££ – Pricey
* Booking: Booking highly recommended, especially evenings and weekends (Book here)
Navigating the delightful chaos of Covent Garden’s Piazza often feels like a competitive sport. Finding a genuine sanctuary amidst the throngs of tourists and street performers can be a challenge, yet tucked within the historic Market Building lies VyTA – an establishment promising contemporary Italian flair with a distinct emphasis on design. It arrives not as a rustic trattoria, but as a sleek, modern interpretation of Italian dining, aiming to carve out a niche for those seeking refinement alongside their risotto. Situated perfectly for pre-theatre dinners or a sophisticated pause during a day of exploration, VyTA presents itself as an oasis of cool geometry and culinary promise. The question, as always, is whether the substance matches the undeniable style.
Design and Demeanour: Inside VyTA’s Covent Garden Outpost
Stepping into VyTA is like entering a meticulously curated jewel box, a stark contrast to the bustling cobblestones outside. The aesthetic leans heavily into a sort of retro-futurist glamour; think plush velvet seating in shades of emerald and rose, polished brass accents, geometric patterns, and mood lighting that transitions seamlessly from day to night. It’s undeniably chic, perhaps even bordering on opulent, clearly designed to impress and provide a backdrop for Instagrammable moments. The service generally mirrors the sophisticated setting – staff are smartly dressed, efficient, and maintain a professional distance. While perhaps lacking effusive warmth, they were certainly attentive on our visit, knowledgeable about the menu, and adept at managing the pace, particularly crucial for the pre-theatre crowd often filling the tables. No fawning, just polished competence.
A Taste of Modern Italy: Standout Dishes at VyTA
The menu confidently strides down the path of contemporary Italian, eschewing overly rustic clichés for refined presentations and quality ingredients. It’s less nonna’s kitchen, more Milan design week. Seasonal nods are present, but the core focus remains on elevated classics and inventive combinations, beautifully plated.
Vitello Tonnato
A perennial Italian favourite, VyTA’s rendition respects tradition while adding visual finesse. Wafer-thin slices of perfectly pink, tender veal are arranged artfully, draped in a creamy, yet surprisingly light, tuna sauce. Crucially, the tuna doesn’t overpower the delicate meat. A scattering of plump capers provides essential bursts of salinity and sharpness, cutting through the richness, while a drizzle of quality olive oil adds a final sheen. It’s a balanced, elegant starter that sets a sophisticated tone.
Tagliolini al Tartufo Nero
The arrival of this dish is heralded by the unmistakable, intoxicating aroma of black truffle. Fresh, thin strands of tagliolini provide the perfect canvas, cooked al dente and lightly coated – rather than drowned – in a buttery, Parmesan-infused emulsion. Generous shavings of pungent black truffle crown the pasta, ensuring its earthy perfume permeates every bite. It’s a dish that leans into luxurious simplicity, delivering rich, umami satisfaction without feeling excessively heavy. A testament to quality ingredients handled with respect.
Polpo Grigliato con Crema di Patate
Grilled octopus requires a deft hand to avoid chewiness, and VyTA largely succeeds. The tentacles boast a satisfyingly smoky char on the exterior, yielding to tender, well-cooked flesh within. It rests upon a velvety smooth potato cream, which acts as a comforting, neutral base allowing the flavour of the octopus to shine. A subtle hint of paprika or perhaps lemon zest (it was hard to pin down) added a welcome brightness. Presented simply but effectively, it’s a substantial yet refined main course showcasing good technique.
The drinks list complements the food well, featuring a predominantly Italian wine selection covering various regions and price points. Cocktails lean towards classics and aperitivo-style drinks, fitting the chic ambiance. Several appealing non-alcoholic options ensure non-drinkers aren’t an afterthought.
The Final Verdict: Is VyTA Covent Garden Worth a Visit?
VyTA Covent Garden successfully delivers on its promise of a stylish, contemporary Italian experience. It’s a restaurant where the striking design and prime location are matched by food that is generally well-executed, thoughtfully presented, and satisfyingly flavourful. The ambiance is buzzy yet sophisticated, making it an excellent choice for pre-theatre dining, impressing a date, or enjoying a chic escape from the Piazza’s hubbub. While the price point places it firmly in the “pricey” category, the quality of the cooking and the overall polish of the experience justify the expense for the right occasion. It may lack the rustic charm of a traditional trattoria, but for those seeking modern Italian food served with a side of glamour – particularly if you appreciate a good truffle pasta – VyTA is a reliable and attractive destination in the heart of London’s theatreland.
