* Location: Manette St, London W1D 4AL
* Website: Visit Website
* Price: £££ – Pricey
* Booking: Booking strongly recommended (Book here)
A Taste of Levantine Electric Buzz in the Heart of Soho
Soho, that ever-shifting kaleidoscope of London life, rarely stands still, and its dining scene is no exception. Amidst the familiar neon glow and theatrical bustle arrives Kapara, planting a vibrant flag inspired by the sun-drenched energy of the Mediterranean. Tucked away on Manette Street, just a stone’s throw from the thrum of Tottenham Court Road, it enters a competitive fray but does so with a confident swagger. It promises not just food, but an *experience* – a slice of Levantine café culture reimagined for London’s discerning palates. Kapara aims to capture the spirit of its namesake – a term of endearment, a playful gesture – translating it into a convivial atmosphere fuelled by bold flavours and generous hospitality. It’s less a quiet corner, more a lively rendezvous point.
Where Bohemian Chic Meets Soho Hustle
Stepping into Kapara is like finding an unexpectedly stylish Mediterranean haunt transported to W1. The ambiance strikes a balance between energetic and intimate; think exposed brickwork meeting plush velvet seating, moody lighting punctuated by flashes of bright, contemporary art. It’s undeniably *Soho* – buzzing, occasionally loud, definitely a place to see and be seen – but it retains a warmth often missing in overtly trendy spots. Service mirrors this duality; staff are generally efficient and knowledgeable, navigating the busy floor with practised ease. While perhaps not lingering for extensive chats during peak hours (a Friday night visit confirmed the vibrant chaos), they were attentive enough, quick with recommendations, and possessed that London knack for being present without hovering. It’s a well-oiled machine designed for a good time.
Flavour Forward: Plates Packed with Personality
Kapara’s menu is a celebration of modern Middle Eastern cuisine, leaning heavily into the sharing-plate culture synonymous with the Mediterranean. It’s a colourful tapestry of dips, grilled delights, and creatively spiced vegetables, designed for communal enjoyment. While choosing is half the fun (and potentially requires some strategic negotiation with dining partners), certain dishes truly sing.
Hummus with Spiced Lamb & Pine Nuts
A litmus test for any Middle Eastern establishment, Kapara’s hummus doesn’t disappoint. Forget the bland supermarket tubs; this is the real deal – impossibly smooth, creamy chickpea puree forming a perfect base for the generous topping. The spiced lamb mince is rich and savoury, its deep flavour beautifully complemented by the earthy tahini notes below. Toasted pine nuts add a welcome textural contrast and a touch of nutty sweetness. Served warm with pillowy pita, it’s a fundamentally satisfying dish, elevated by quality ingredients and expert execution.
Charred Hispi Cabbage with Labneh & Zhug
Vegetables are given star treatment here, and the humble cabbage is transformed into something quite spectacular. Charred until smoky and tender-crisp at the edges, the natural sweetness of the hispi is amplified. It sits atop a cooling pool of tangy labneh, the thick strained yoghurt providing a creamy counterpoint to the cabbage’s char. The finishing touch is a drizzle of zhug – that vibrant, feisty Yemeni chilli sauce – adding a fresh, herbaceous heat that cuts through the richness. A simple concept, brilliantly executed.
Seabass Crudo with Fennel & Blood Orange
Offering a lighter, brighter contrast to the richer dishes, the seabass crudo showcases finesse. Delicately thin slices of impeccably fresh seabass are arranged artfully, glistening under a light dressing. Wafer-thin slices of crisp fennel add an aniseed note and subtle crunch, while segments of blood orange provide bursts of vibrant, sweet acidity that lift the entire dish. It’s clean, refreshing, and demonstrates a deft hand with quality seafood, proving Kapara isn’t just about bold, punchy flavours but also understands nuance.
The drinks list keeps pace, featuring cocktails often incorporating Middle Eastern botanicals and spices – think Arak or date syrup making cameo appearances. The wine list offers a decent selection, including some interesting Levantine options alongside more familiar European choices, ensuring suitable pairings for the flavour-packed food.
Soho’s Lively Portal to a Med Lifestyle
Kapara successfully bottles a measure of the Mediterranean’s vibrant dining spirit and uncorks it in the heart of Soho. It delivers bold, satisfying flavours within a setting that buzzes with energy, managing to feel both contemporary and welcoming. While the pace can be brisk and the decibel level lively (perhaps not the spot for a hushed tête-à-tête), the quality of the cooking generally shines through. It’s ideally suited for convivial group dinners, pre-theatre fuel-ups where atmosphere matters, or even a lively date night for those who thrive on bustle. The combination of well-executed, shareable plates like that memorable charred cabbage, attentive-enough service, and a genuinely buzzing atmosphere makes Kapara a welcome and worthy addition to London’s ever-evolving culinary map. It’s a place that leaves you feeling satisfied and perhaps just a little more energised than when you arrived.
